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When compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. But, tucked prominently among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners totally astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest shop securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary honour.